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Tay Ninh

Pictures by QT Luong

Tay Ninh is the holy site of Caodaism, probably Vietnam's most curious indigenous religion. Caodaism, founded in 1926 by Ngo Minh Chieu, is an attempt at an ideal religion, using religious and philosophical traditions from the West and the East, including Buddhism, Confusianism, Taoism, Hinduism, native Vietnamese spiritism, Christianity and Islam. The eclectism of the religion is reflected in the Great Temple. Built between 1933 and 1955, it combines architectural elements of a church, a pagoda in an extravagant rocco style. The ceremony at the Great Cao Dai temple has a visually beautiful ritual, with the ordinary clergy in white robes and only the high priest wearing color. Traditional music is sung and played as well. It takes place daily at noon (there are three others during the day, but it's too dark then), and visitors are admitted on upstairs balconies. Past the first half-hour, the crowds of tourists will thin out, so there is no need to jockey for position.

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