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Katmai National Park

Black and White pictures by QT Luong

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[Backpacking the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes]

Large format photos of Katmai National Park · Panoramic photos of Katmai National Park]

Located 300 miles Southwest from Anchorage, near the end of the Alaska Peninsula and along the crest of the Pacific Rim of fire, Katmai is today mostly known as the largest the spawning grounds of millions of Sockeye salmon, which attract the largest Brown bear population in the world. However, what prompted the creation of the Park was the eruption of Novaropta in 1912, the largest recorded in modern times. Acid rain burned clothing lines as far as Vancouver, and locally a lantern held at arm's length could not be seen for days. The floor of a vast Valley was buried in 700 feet of pumice and ash, and its surface was found by a 1916 National Geographic expedition to be steaming with thousands of fumaroles, hence the name Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Nowadays, the fumaroles are gone from the valley floor, however nearly a century of harsh weather has enhanced its beauty, and one can now gaze into river canyons hundreds of feet deep where the layers of pumice and ash have been slowly eroded by the channeled rain and snowmelt.

You have probably seen images of a brown bear catching a salmon jumpimg mid-air. It is almost certain that the photograph was made at Brooks Falls in July, at the peak of the salmon run. There is an observation platform where you stand just in front of the bears, and a modest telephoto is sufficient to take a good picture. Nowhere else it is as easy to view them, and often inadvertently encounter them on the trail or on the lake beach. Returning to Brooks Falls in the much quieter month of September, the bears feeding on spawned out and dying salmon looked big and fat, with more shinny and full coats. While all visitors spend some time to admire those magnificent animals, it is the eruption at the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes which led to the establishment of the park. I took the four-wheel drive bus on two occasions: for a day tour to an overlook over the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes in 2016, and to backpack in the Valley for a week in 2001. Although bad weather thwarted our attempts to climb the high peaks surrounding the valley, we left with memorable impressions of an eerily unique landscape. See also the pictures of backpacking.

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Rain showers above lakes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Naknek Lake with rainbowed shaft of light. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brooks River and mountains, evening. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Lake and mountains at sunset. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Rainbow, seagulls, and bear, Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bear tracks, Naknek lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Alaskan Brown bear (Ursus arctos) on the shore of Naknek lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bears in autumn grasses, Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Overview of Brown bears fishing at the Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bear holding in mounth  salmon at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bears fighting, Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Sow and grizzly bear cub. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Shaft of light over tundra meadow downstream of Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ash cliffs carved by Ukak River, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Three Forks Confluence, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Colorful ash and Lethe River gorge, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) A break in the clouds illuminate the floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Snow-covered mountains contrasting with arid valley floor. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Mt Meigeck emerging above ash plain of Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes at dusk. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Gorge carved by Lethe River ash floor of Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Melting snow and lichens, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brightly colored ash in wide plain, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Wildflowers, pumice, and distant peaks in storm, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Detail of pumice, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Aerial view of Naknek lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Aerial View of island in autumn foliage contrasting with blue waters, Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Aerial View of Naknek Lake in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Aerial View of pond, tundra and Naknek Lake in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Aerial View of forest and ponds. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Aerial View of meadows, forest, and Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Aerial View of Lake Brooks and Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Dawn, Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Sun rising over Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Sunrise, Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bear tracks on the shore of Naknek lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Huge bear footprints on shore of Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Naknek Lake shore with huge bear footprints. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Shore of Lake Brooks. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Cloud and rainbow, Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Naknek Lake and rainbow near Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Close-up of rainbow over Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Rainbow over autumn grasses and trees. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Grasses and rainbow, Brooks Camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Grasses, meadow, and rainbow. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Grasses and pond, Brooks Camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Grasses and mountain in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Wildflowers and leaves in autumn color. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Looking up cottonwoods trees in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Forest and undergrowth in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Deciduous forest in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Reflections in pond near Brooks camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Sunset and rainbow, Naknek lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Naknek Lake at sunset with pink clouds. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Sunset on the Brooks river. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Lake and Mountains with pink clouds at sunset. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Naknek Lake at night, framed by trees. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Moonlit Naknek Lake at night. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brooks camp and river seen from Dumpling mountain in summer. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Naknek Lake with patch of glassy water. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Lake Brooks from above, autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) High view of Naknek Lake from treeline. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Clouds and shadows above Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Tundra and shimering Lake Brooks. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Lake Brooks from Dumpling Mountain. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Tundra above lakes and distant rain showers. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Tundra in fall colors above Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Autum colors on tundra above Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Colorful tundra in the fall above Naknek Lake and Lake Brooks. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Close-up of berries and lichen. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Close-up of tundra with berries in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Multicolored tundra in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Close-up of autumn tundra. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Dumpling Mountain. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Cloud and rain over lakes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Clouds and showers above Lake Brooks. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Iliuk Arm and North Arms of Naknek Lake from above. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Rainbow in sun shaft piercing clouds. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brooks Camp and Naknek Lake from above. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Naknek Lake, Brooks River, and Lake Brooks from above. Katmai National Park ( black and white) The entire Brooks River from above. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brooks River area in autumn from above. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Footbridge over Brooks River from above. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Mountains and clouds in stormy evening light. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bears gathering at Brooks Falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Salmon leaping and Brown bears fishing at the Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bears fishing at the Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Alaskan Brown bear trying to catch leaping salmon at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bear (Ursus arctos) catching leaping salmon at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bear (Ursus arctos) trying to catch leaping salmon at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bears (scientific name: ursus arctos) fishing at the Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Alaskan Brown bear (Ursus arctos) fishing at the base of Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bear and bird at the base of Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bear extending leg to catch jumping salmon at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Alaskan Brown bear with catch  at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bear (Ursus arctos) and leaping salmon at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Alaskan Brown bear in the Brooks river. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Overview of Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Alaskan Brown bear (scientific name: ursus arctos) chewing salmon at the base of Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Leaping salmon at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Two Brown bears trying to catch leaping salmon at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bear watching a salmon jumping out of catching range at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bear (scientific name: ursus arctos) eating salmon at Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Alaskan Brown bears gathered at Brooks Falls. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Brown bears encounters on trail are frequent at Brooks camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) A brown bears plays with a photographer's equipment. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bears in Brooks river. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bear in shallows waters of Naknek lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bears, Naknek Lake, sunset. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown Bear and seagull, Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Grizzly bear walking on gravel bar, Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bear in Brooks River and Dumpling Mountain. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Wetlands and forest with distant bear and seagulls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bear in Brooks River autumn landscape. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown bears swimming, Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Grizzly bear swimming, Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bear and ripples, Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bear head emerging from rippled water. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brooks Falls and bears fishing in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown Coastal Bear at Brooks Falls in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bears in Brooks River below Brooks Falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Grizzly Bears gathered at Brooks Falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Fat brown bear at Brooks Falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Coastal Bear in Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brown Bear eating salmon, Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Grizzly Bear eating a salmon, Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Grizzly bears fighting in Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Sow and bear cub sleeping. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Mother and bear cub. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Sow and brown bear cub. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Rainbow over valley in autumn foliage. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Dappled light over autumn tundra and mountains. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Tundra and snowy mountains near Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes in autumn. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Lethe gorge, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, and mountains. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes from rim. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Snowy peaks rising above Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak River gorge, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak River carving gorge in Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Confluence of the Knife, Lethe, and Windy creek, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Convergence of the Lethe river and and Knife river, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Gorge cut in volcanic ash plain, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Gorge at the convergence of  Lethe and Knife rivers, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Cliffs carved from ash rock, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak River flowing on rock bed, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak River flowing on hard rock, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak River and flutted ash cliffs, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak River at brink of Ukak falls, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak River, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak Falls, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak River flowing in ash landscape, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Cliffs of ash rock and Ukak River, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ukak River and ash cliffs, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Yellow paintbrush and orchid flowers. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Orchids and Yellow paintbrush. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Lupine and Lethe river on the edge of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Wildflowers and Lethe river at the edge of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Deep gorge carved by the Lethe River, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Lethe river gorge and volcanic peaks, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Stream flows from the hills into the floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Lethe river, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Stream flows from the verdant hills into the barren floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Stream flowing into arid ash-covered valley. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Volcanic landscape with deep gorge cut into ash valley. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Stormy landscape with ash-covered valley and mountains. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Volcanic landscape with river cutting into ash valley. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Lethe river cutting deep into ash floor, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Stream flows from verdant hills into  barren valley floor. Katmai National Park ( black and white) The Lethe river carved a deep gorge into the ash of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Snowfield and Lethe river, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ash dune formation, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Wildflowers grow on ash at the limit of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Wildflowers growing on foothills bordering the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Snow-covered mountains with pink dusk sky. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Ash plain, and mountains at sunset, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Big bear tracks in the ash, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Close-up of animal tracks in fine ash, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Animal tracks in ash, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Colorful slab, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Valley with animal tracks in  ash, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ash-covered valley. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Arid ash plain landscape with colorful deposits. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Ash formation, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ash formation on the floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes, below the green hills. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Colorful ash, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ash-covered floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, evening. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Mt Meigeck rising above floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smoke. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Desert-like ash-covered valley surrounded by snowy peaks. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Snow-covered mountains surrounding ash-covered flats. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Ash formation, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) The desert-like floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes is surrounded by snow-covered peaks such as Mt Meigeck. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Mt Meigeck raises above the floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Snow-covered peaks surrounding the arid ash-covered floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Patterns of melting snow, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Pumice below Novarupta volcano, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Baked mountain seen from Novarupta. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Snow is still present in early summer, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Pumice slopes and misty mountains. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Lichens, snow patches, and snowy peaks. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Tiny plants growing on ash floor, Valley of Ten Thousand Smoke. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Volcanic landscape with pumice hills surrounding ash valley. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Pumice and wildflowers, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Rare plants growing out of the ash of Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Pumice close-up, Valley of Ten Thousand Smoke. Katmai National Park (Panoramic black and white) Tiny plants begin to reestablish themselves in the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Close-up of tiny plants in the Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Close-up of tiny plants and flowers, Valley of Ten Thousand smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bears and salmon on visitor center sign. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brooks Camp Visitor Center. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Naknek Lake, Brooks Camp Visitor Center Window Reflexion. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brooks Lodge dinning hall. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Cottages, Brooks Lodge. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Sign in Brooks campground, warning of the electric fence used to keep the bears out. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Brooks Camp campground surrounded with electric fence. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Food and gear cache building, Brooks Camp campground. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Inside food Cache, Brooks Camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Inside Gear Cache, Brooks Camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Tents, fire ring, and shelter, Brooks Camp campground. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Native dwelling interpretive sign. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Cultural site with reconstruction of Native dwelling. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Road between Brooks Camp and Lake Brooks. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Three Forks Overlook shelter. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Three Forks Overlook shelter window reflexion. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes intepretive sign. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Chain of Volcanoes intepretive sign. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Trail in dense forest, Brooks Camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Narrow trail in dark forest, Brooks Camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Trail to Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Dumpling Mountain Trail. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Baggage claim, King Salmon. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Floatplanes, Lake Brooks. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Floatplane in Naknek lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Floatplane facing Naknek Lake. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Unloading floatplane, Lake Brooks. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Katmai lodge, Brooks camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Inside Brooks Lodge. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Picnic area enclosed in electric fence. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Entrance of Brooks Camp campground with electric fence. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Food and gear cache in the campground, protected from bears by an electric fence. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Camper ferrying loads into the campground. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Camper sitting by campfire at night,  Brooks Camp. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Group heading towards Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Crossing a bridge on the way to Brooks falls. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Ranger holds door open as visitors cross footbrige over Brooks River. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Bear viewing. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Photographers at the Brooks falls obervation platform. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Photographers on observation platform and Brooks falls with bears. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Man fishing for salmon in the Brooks river. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Fishermen in the Brooks river. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Visitor looking, Naknek Lake from Dumpling Mountain. Katmai National Park ( black and white) Visitor Looking, Ukak River, Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Katmai National Park ( black and white)
All the 251 black and white pictures of Katmai National Park are on this page