With no road access, Glacier Bay National Park is a marine wilderness which can be explored only by water travel. While most visitors experience the park through the deck of a cruise ship or tour boat, Arnd Pralle and I set up to kayak for nearly two weeks so that we could experience the vastness of the bay through a low waterline, observe closely wildlife thanks to a quiet vessel, cross narrow channels and iceberg-chocked passageways not accessible to boats, paddle and land as close to the glaciers as possible, and camp on isolated beaches. Despite the wet weather, huge tides and currents, ice-cold waters, we came to appreciate why the Bay is considered by many to be among the finest sea-kayaking grounds in the world. Using the park water shuttle system to get our double kayak closer to our destinations, we were able to explore the intensely wild world of the tranquil Muir Inlet, closed to cruise boats, and then the spectacular West arm, up to the John Hopkins inlet. See also the scenic pictures of Glacier Bay National Park.